Leopard Spot Shino
This is a different type of Shino. After 8 months of testing and changing a Shino formula from Australia I started to get some pretty remarkable results. I changed 2 of the main ingredients and added a sponge-like material to soak up the soda ash and the carbon. A Leopard Spot Shino was born. The ingredients are expensive. But, I've had several requests for it so I've decided to make it available.
One order includes 5 lbs of dry Leopard Spot Shino. This makes approximately 1 gallon of glaze.
Mixing Directions: Add enough water to this shino to make it slightly thick. Then, screen it once thru an 80 mesh screen. Then, add a bit of water at a time and mix well and check it with a Hydrometer. This Shino works best if it's water content is at 42 on a hydrometer. Keep adding a bit of water and mix and measure it with the hydrometer until you get it to a 42 on the hydrometer scale.
Hydrometer Info: I finally found a good hydrometer thru a Beer Brewing, Co. on Amazon. You're looking for one with a 40 - 60 scale on the side of it.
Application Instructions: This Shino likes to be dipped for a count of 10. Take accurate notes as you get to learn the best application for how quickly (or slowly) you count to 10. It does NOT work if it's sprayed.
Loading and Firing Instructions: Fired in cone 10 reduction. Fire this Shino in a normal reduction atmosphere. You don't need to over-reduce this Shino because the carbon is already in the formula. And, don't load your Leopard Spot Pots next to the outer part of the shelves near the burner side. Loading them toward the center and up the front of the kiln are good places for your Leopard Spot Pots. Be sure to take notes as to where your kiln gives you the best results. Each kiln fires differently. And, each Potter fires their reduction a little different.
These images show Leopard Spot Shino on different cone 10 clay bodies: Coleman Porcelain, BMix, Wood Fire Porcelain, and other porcelain and stoneware bodies.